How to Make A wooden Toy Box

How to Make a Wooden Toy Chest/Box

Making a wooden toy box can be fun and as well as practical.  You can save money and achieve gratification knowing how to build toy chests.  This is very useful in safely keeping your child’s toys, books, and games.  This can also teach your children how to be responsible towards their belongings without cluttering. 

First and foremost, we need to consider the safety features of this project.  This box should have convenient finger slots so that you and especially your children’s fingers will not get slammed accidentally.

Materials needed for the project

1.    Hardwood

·         1.9cm x 44cm x 81cm for the front and rear (2 pieces)

·         1.9cm x 44cm x 51cm for the both sides (2 pieces)

·         1.9cm x 50cm x 81cm for the seat (1 piece)

·         1.27cm x 1.27cm x 77.5cm for the front, and rear bottom braces (2 pieces)

·         1.27cm x 1.27cm x 44.45cm for the side bottom braces (2 pieces)

·         1.9cm x 81.2cm x 81cm for the back rest (1 piece)

·         1.9cm x 7.6cm x 51cm for the arm rests (2 pieces)

2.    Plywood

·         1.27cm x 47cm x 77.5cm for the bottom (1 piece)

3.    Birch

·         .95cm x 5cm for the dowel pins (10 pieces)

·         .3cm x 1.27cm x 41cm for the splines (2 pieces)

4.    Brass

·         1.16cm x 76.2cm piano hinge (1 piece)

·         Safety lid supports (2 pieces)

5.    Flathead screws

·         1.5cm x #8 (6 pieces)

6.    Any decorations to amplify the design of your toy chest.

7.    Saw

8.    Hammer/Nail gun

9.    Wood Glue

10.           Tape measure/Ruler

11.           Pencil

12.           Drill

13.           T-Square

14.           Safety goggles

15.           Planer

16.           Disk Sander

17.           Plastic wood dough

18.           Stain

19.           Paint brush

Cuttings:

1. Cut the wood a bit larger than the actual measurement using a saw.
2. Connect the edges of the boards that were cut earlier.
3. Use a pencil and a T-Square to acquire the width of the front.
4. Using the dowel pins, allineate the .95cm diameter hole of the jig with the marks on the board and drill some holes with 3cm deep in each of the board.
5. Before pounding the dowel pin into the holes that you have just drilled, put some drops of wood glue into the holes so that it will hold strongly. 
6. Using bar clamps, stick the edges together and put some wood glue to the exposing dowel pins.  Leave it for about 24 hours for firm hold.
7. To acquire the width of the rear, repeat the procedures 3 to 6.
8. To acquire the widths of the sides, repeat the procedures 3 to 6.  However, the length of the board should be 53.34cm, and only two bar clamps and two dowel pins are needed.
9. Repeat the procedures 3 to 6 to acquire the width of the seat but use 25.4cm x 84cm boards instead of the required measurement.  Use three dowel pins in this procedure.
10. Plane the boards when the glue has dried.
11. Use table saw and radial arm saw to cut the boards into its required measurements.
12. Get rid of the saw edges using a jointer plane.
13. Make some finger slots by drawing a parallel line about 9cm from the top of each side.  This will serve as a marker to drill two holes using a drill press and cut through the holes forming an oblong.
14. Cut a 1.9cm x 7.62cm using a band saw for the back rest.
15. Cut a 16.5cm x 53.34cm for the arm rests.  Use disk sander to plane the sides.
16. Cut 1.27cm x 1.27cm. x 77.47cm for front and rear bottom braces
17. Cut 1.27cm x 1.27cm x 47cm for the side bottom braces.
18. Cut plywood about 47cm x 77.47cm for the bottom board.

Sanding:

1. Sand all the parts with an 80 grit sandpaper
2. Second sanding with 120 grit sandpaper
3. The first and second sanding should be executed before the assembly of the parts.
4. After the assembly of the parts, finishing sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
5. Prior to the finish procedure, hand sand all the parts.

Assembling:

1. Glue the 45 degree edges and clamp them.
2. Put the bottom board flat on the floor
3. Affix the front board onto the edge of the bottom board using flathead screws. 
4. Do the same with the side to rear and rear to side until you can partially form a box.
5. Space the screws evenly.
6. For the flip up top cover, attach the piano hinge firmly with the screws provided along with it.
7. You can also use nails and a hammer in the assembly of the parts except for the hinge.
8. If you are using hard woods, you drill pilot holes first before mounting up the flathead screws.

Finishing:

1. Check the newly assembled parts if there are holes or any undesired formation before doing the finishing procedure.
2. If you happen to discover holes and cracks around the box.  You can use plastic wood glue to fill any cracks and holes in the box and sand the filled holes and cracks after it dries within an hour.
3. if you desired for stain, use brush in application.  Allow it to penetrate within 15 minutes.
4. Second coating of stain is after 6 hours.
5. Using a pure bristle paint brush, apply a clear finish using lacquer and leave it to dry for 12 hours.
6. Hand sanding it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper.
7. A second coating of clear finish is applied.  And leave it to dry for about 24 hours.
8. You’re wooden toy chest is ready to use.
9. If you desire in painting your toy chest, use primer first and then followed by second coating.
10. You can also use spray paint for faster application.

Tips:

1. After each sanding, use tack cloth to remove small particles of dust produced. 
2. In deciding for the color of the plastic wood dough, make sure it’s the same color with the stain.